Posted on Wed, May 26, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Porches are a great addition to homes, especially in Central New York where our spectacular summers are far too short. A porch can be a place for relaxation, outdoor dining or even sleeping on a warm summer night. Screened porches extend the time you can spend enjoying summer breezes by protecting you from insects.
When I drive around Syracuse, I always notice porches on older homes. Some have grand pillars and open seating. Others are screened entryways with aluminum storm doors. Home owners decorate porches with potted plants, window boxes and outdoor furniture.
While I appreciate the designs and utility of porches, I often see porches in need of maintenance. If you own a home with a porch, you'll want to inspect your "haven" for the following problems:
- Rot. Porches are susceptible to rot. They are usually framed in wood and are not supported by the home's foundation. Porches are exposed to the elements - sun, rain, ice, snow and wind all which cause wood to deteriorate. Wood beams which support a porch are often the first point of deterioration. Framing can be repaired with pressure treated lumber.
- Settling. Porches may settle more quickly over the years because they are not attached to a home's foundation. This can cause warped boards and shingles pulling away from the house. If left unattended settling could cause a porch to collapse. Settling is often the result of insufficient foundation support and can be resolved by lifting the porch and adding a new foundation.
- Cracked boards. Wood floors can crack due to heating by the sun and cooling and moisture during the fall winter and spring. These cracks may create an area where decay can occur. The problem can be repaired by replacing individual boards or possibly eliminated by replacing the entire floor with composite decking.
- Insects. Termites are not a problem in Central New York but carpenter ants can be pests and are attracted to decaying wood and can cause damage. Using insecticide will eliminate ants temporarily, but to prevent them from returning the decayed wood should be removed.
- Cracked wiring and rusted fixtures. Exterior light fixtures and porch wiring are more exposed to the elements than interior wiring. Check for cracked wiring and rusted fixtures. Contact an electrician if you find problems especially if you own an older home. Have the electrician add ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) to all outside circuits. Replace rusted fixtures.
- Wear and tear on columns, posts and railings. Most porch columns and rails of older homes are made of wood and require regular painting and maintenance. If you have to replace them, check out reinforced vinyl, composite or urethane products.
- Tears in screens. One of the best features of a porch is screens that keep insects out. Check your screens for holes. Most small holes can be easily patched for performance but once patched the screen may not look aesthetically pleasing. Most screens can be easily replaced by taking the frame to your local hardware store for professional rescreening or by stretching new screen in the opening. If tearing is an ongoing problem, you may want to install a more durable "pet screen." To optimize the view through your screens, check out the new "invisible screens."
The pluses of having a porch outweigh annual maintenance. If you plan to build a porch onto your home consider the following:
- The enjoyment you will experience.
- New building materials are more durable and reduce annual maintenance.
- A porch will add value to your home.
Posted on Wed, May 05, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
As you may have heard or read about in the news, starting April 22, 2010 all contractors performing renovation, repair or painting on pre-1978 homes must be certified and follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. If you live in a house built before 1978, there's a good chance it contains lead paint.
We've received a number of questions from homeowners about this new U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) requirement and we wanted to share our answers with you.
1. How do I know if my house has lead paint?
If your house was built before 1978 assume that lead paint was used. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, about two-thirds of homes built before 1940 and about half of homes built between 1940 and 1960 contain heavily-leaded paint. Lead was used as a pigment and drying agent in alkyd oil-based paints until 1978 when the legal maximum of lead content in paints was reduced to a trace amount (0.06%). Lead paint can be on any interior or exterior surface particularly on woodwork, doors and windows. Latex or water-based paints generally have not contained lead.
2. What are the health risks attributed to lead paint exposure?
In most cases, lead-based paint that's in good condition is not a problem. As it deteriorates and breaks down into dust and chips, however, it can become a health risk. It can get into your body when dust is breathed in or swallowed, or by ingesting soil or paint chips that contain lead. Children are vulnerable to lead poisoning because their growing bodies absorb more lead and their brains and nervous systems are more sensitive to the damaging effects. Lead poisoning can cause irreversible brain damage and adversely impact development. In adults, lead poisoning can cause nerve damage, reproductive problems and high blood pressure. Removing lead-based paint improperly can increase your risk of exposure. Learn more about the health effects of lead on the EPA's Web site.
3. What does the EPA require from contractors?
The EPA requires all companies and contractors (including carpenters, painters, electricians and window installers) who work on homes built before 1978 - to be certified in the use of lead-safe practices. EPA issues separate certifications to businesses and individuals. Upon completing an 8-hour EPA-approved course, contractors are certified for five years. All certified contractors must provide their clients with a copy of EPA's lead Hazard information pamphlet, "Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers and Schools" and follow procedures to contain the work area, minimize dust, and clean up thoroughly.
4. What should I expect from my contractor?
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EPA certified contractors will explain the steps they will take to protect you from lead dust.
When they're working on the inside of your home, contractors must:
- Use signs to keep residents and pets out of the work area.
- Remove furniture and belongings, or cover them with heavy plastic sheeting.
- Use heavy plastic sheeting to cover floors and other fixtures (e.g., appliances) in the work area.
- When appropriate, use heavy plastic sheeting to separate the work area from other areas of the home.
- Close and seal vents in the work area and turn off forced-air heating and air conditioning systems.
To protect the work area outside of your home, contractors must:
- Mark off the work area to keep non-workers away.
- Cover the ground and plants with heavy plastic sheeting.
- Close windows and doors near the work area.
- Move or cover play areas near the work site.
- Wrap all removed materials in sealed plastic before taking them out of the work area.
- Use personal protective equipment to ensure the safety of workers.
- Provide you a list of all "trained workers."
Other precautions to minimize dust include:
- Misting areas prior to sanding, scraping. Drilling or cutting.
- Scoring paint before separating components.
- Prying or pulling apart components instead of pounding and hammering.
- Using a shroud with a HEPA vacuum attachment when using power tools and equipment.
5. How much will this new rule add to the cost of my project?
The cost of complying with the new EPA regulations will depend on the type and size of the project you are undertaking. A baseline cost for all projects will take into account the contractor's cost for EPA certification, training, equipment and required EPA documentation. For us, the minimum cost will be $100, even for the smallest jobs. On more extensive projects the cost could be thousands of dollars. Most contractors are just beginning to implement these regulations and may not know their exact costs until they have experience in fully meeting the requirements. If you are working with a qualified contractor, however, they should already be taking steps to protect your home and keep the job site clean, which will help facilitate compliance with the EPA requirements.
6. What if I do the work myself?
The EPA regulations do not apply to individual homeowners making their own repairs or painting their home. However, if you suspect there is lead paint in your home or your home has tested positive for lead paint, take the time to read the EPA's "Renovate Right" brochure for information about how to work safely. Remember, common renovation activities such as sanding, demolition and cutting can create lead dust by disturbing lead paint. If you're painting, prep work such as sanding, scraping and using a "paint-burning" heater will also release lead dust and paint chips.
Posted on Fri, Apr 16, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Cracked or missing grout not only looks bad but it can cause water seepage and mildew growth.
To re-grout ceramic bathroom tile, you'll need these tools and materials:
- Grout saw, which can be purchased at a hardware store
- Grout float
- Grout sponge
- Rags
- Squeegee
- Commercial grout cleaner
- Grout
- Grout sealer
Follow these steps for a professional looking job:
- If possible, take a small piece of grout from your bathroom to a home improvement store to match it correctly. Color is important and so is finding the right grout for your project. Ask the salesperson for non-shrinking grout. It may save you time and effort. Grout may shrink as it dries and you will have to re-apply grout to fill grooves.
- Clean and remove the existing grout. Be careful not to damage tiles. Use a commercial grout cleaner to remove soap scum, mildew and grime. Let the surface dry completely.
- Remove damaged and cracked grout with a grout saw. The saw has a rough carbide surface which grinds out the grout. Check to be sure that there is no loose material left between the tiles.
- Dampen the grooves between the tiles with a wet rag. Moisture is needed to assure that the grout adheres properly. Don't over-wet the area. Be sure the surface is damp.
- Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Apply the grout evenly over the spaces with a grout float.
- After all the grooves are filled and smoothed, go over the area with a squeegee to remove excess grout from the face of the tiles. You can also use a grout sponge for this step. If you remove grout from the grooves, go back over the area with the grout float.
- Let the grout dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Re-apply if you notice gaps.
- When you're satisfied with the grout work, apply grout sealer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. After the sealer dries, take a wet rag or sponge and wipe residue off the tiles. You'll notice a haze. Allow the haze to dry and wipe it off with a dry rag. Your tile will shine and look new again.
Posted on Tue, Apr 13, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Caulk is used to fill gaps and seal areas. Caulk applied around windows and doors reduces drafts and prevents water leaks. Around bathroom and kitchen fixtures, it provides a water proof seal. Caulk is applied around counters for aesthetics, and is also used by painters to eliminate gaps between walls and trim.
To caulk an area of your home you'll need:
- A caulk tube or cartridge (It's very important to read the product information to find the right caulk for your job)
- A retractable razor blade scraper
- A long nail
- Several cotton rags
Here's how to do a professional caulking job:
- Remove the old caulk with the razor blade scraper and vacuum the debris.
- Wipe the area with a dry cloth.
- Open the caulk tube or cartridge by making a clean cut at a 45-degree angle. Puncture the inner seal with a long nail. Place the cartridge in the caulk gun.
- Squeeze the tube or cartridge handle hard enough to get the caulk into the joint. Work the area at a slow and consistent speed.
- After applying the caulk, the less you touch it, the better. If needed, smooth the joint by lightly using your finger. If you're using latex caulk, you can moisten your finger with water to prevent the caulk from sticking. Be careful to avoid getting water on the surface that the caulk is adhered to. If you are using silicone caulk, wet your finger with saliva to smooth the joint. Silicone caulk can be very difficult to smooth out after it has been applied.
- Let the caulk dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Posted on Sat, Apr 10, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Every home needs to be painted periodically. Paint is the best way to freshen a home. Home improvement magazines and television shows make it seem so easy, but before you paint do a little research. What the magazines and TV shows don't tell you is how to select paint, how to prepare a room for painting, the tools required for your job and the steps that lead to a good paint job. They also don't tell you how long it will take to complete the job, especially if you're painting solo.
Before you buy a can of paint, take the time to ask questions at your local paint or hardware store. Their experts will advise you about the best paint for your project. Ask about the tools you will need for the job and how to use them. You may feel odd about asking someone about how to hold a paintbrush, but there is a technique to painting that the pros know to paint in a straight line and avoid drips and smudges.
Proper preparation before the paint goes on the wall will save time in the long run.
Here's how to prepare a room for painting:
- Remove furniture from the room.
- Remove outlet covers and put them in a plastic bag to avoid losing screws. Remove doorbell covers and chimes. Remove hardware from doors and windows.
- Cover or remove light fixtures. Turn off power when doing this or working around electrical outlets.
- If you are not a pro, use painter's tape around trim, door and windows. Don't forget to tape the lock at the edge of the door.
- Cover the floor and furniture that you can't remove from the room with drop cloths or plastic.
- Remove nails and screws from walls and fill holes with spackling compound. Fill wall cracks. Ceiling cracks will take more time and effort to repair. Let the compound dry, then sand smooth.
- Scrape any loose or peeling paint.
- If the surface is uneven, spread compound over the area and sand.
- Dust the walls with a dry cloth, then wash the walls down. If there is grease and grime on the walls, wash the surface with trisodium phosphate (TSP). Wash the walls again with warm water to remove the TSP. Allow the walls to dry completely.
Painting should be done in steps. Most pros recommend using primer for the best results. (Hint: If you're painting the entire wall, tint primer to the color of the paint you've selected. It will save you an extra coat of paint.).
Paint the ceiling first, then walls, then the trim. Paint doors and windows last. Let paint dry before applying a second coat.
Posted on Thu, Apr 08, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Repairing ceiling cracks requires patience. Cracks can occur when roof trusses expand and contract, or when the framing materials of the house move due to seasonal heating and cooling.
You'll need these tools and supplies to repair a ceiling crack:
- Paint scraper
- Joint knife
- Cutting and taping knives
- Drywall tape (mesh tape holds the compound well)
- Sanding block
- Joint compound
- Paint
- Primer
- Sandpaint (if repairing a textured ceiling)
- Paint brush and/or rollers (with ceiling extension if possible)
- Paint pan
- Ladder
- Drop cloths
- Goggles and face mask, for protection from plaster dust, and a hat.
Here's how to make the ceiling crack repair:
- Clear the area. Cover floors and furniture with drop cloths.
- Put on the face mask and goggles to protect you from breathing in plaster and getting dry compound dust in your eyes. This is a messy job so use a hat or head covering too.
- If applicable, remove old dry wall patches and tape with the scraper. Use the scraper underneath the lip of the tape and take the entire strip off.
- Widen the ceiling crack. Use the joint knife to widen the crack just a bit to give the joint compound something to adhere to.
- Apply the drywall tape and spread the joint compound over the tape with the dry wall knife. Push the compound through the mesh into the crack.
- Let the surface dry. Add additional joint compound if needed and check the surface after it has dried. Then sand smooth and wipe with a dry cloth. You may want to vacuum the area before you paint and wipe plaster dust off adjacent walls.
- Apply primer and let dry.
- Paint the crack. If your ceiling was painted with sand, use sandpaint to cover the crack. The sandpaint should be applied with a brush. Carefully blend the sandpaint with the existing surface. It may be possible to feather in the paint if you're using the same paint that's currently on the ceiling. Blending is often difficult to do if you are an amateur. If the repaired area is still evident after you've tried to blend the paint, consider re-painting the entire ceiling. It will give your room a fresh look.
Posted on Tue, Apr 06, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Mothers always tell their children "don't play ball in the house" but accidents do happen and the result is often a hole in the drywall.
The most common area for holes in drywall is the wall behind a door where a knob impacts. Holes are now easier to repair with a relatively new material - drywall patch - that has a self adhesive mesh holding a perforated galvanized metal drywall patch.
Here are the tools and supplies you'll need to repair drywall:
- 6-inch minimum wallboard joint knife
- Cutting and taping knives
- Sanding block
- Sand paper
- Dust mask and goggles
- Dust cloth
- Paint brush
- Drywall joint compound
- Drywall patch
- Primer
- Paint
Here's how to make the drywall repair:
- Measure the hole and buy the appropriate size patch.
- Put on your dust mask and goggles.
- Clean the area to be patched with a dry cloth and, if necessary, use a cutting knife to widen the crack just a bit to give the joint compound something to adhere to and remove any loose drywall material.
- Peel off the backing and stick the drywall patch over the hole.
- Use the drywall knife and spread wallboard joint compound over the patch in layers.
- Cover all the pores of the adhesive mesh and extend the compound to about 6 inches beyond the hole or crack to blend with the surrounding area.
- Let dry and sand smooth using the sanding block. Repeat if needed.
- Dust the area with a cloth.
- Paint the surface with primer. (Hint: If you're painting the entire wall, tint primer to the color of the paint you've selected. It will save you an extra coat of paint.)
- After the primer dries, paint. If you're not painting the entire wall, feather the paint by using a slightly dry brush to blend with the existing paint surface.
Posted on Mon, Apr 05, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Spring has finally arrived! The ice has melted from the rooftops and milder temperatures encourage housebound Central New Yorkers to inspect our homes for winter damage and start "spring cleaning." Here are ten areas of the home you should check for problems:
- Foundation walls. Check for cracks, breaks and heaving.
- Outside walls and siding. Inspect for missing shingles, cracked boards, chipped bricks or openings that allow moisture to penetrate the walls. Use silicone caulk to repair vinyl siding openings.
- Roof. Check for loose, damaged or missing shingles. Look for damage to soffits and air circulation vents that may be loose or missing. Inspect skylights for cracks, gaps and leaks.
- Chimney. Check for cracks and loose caps.
- Gutters. Clean and inspect. Re-attach loose gutters.
- Wood trim. Check for cracks, breakage and rot.
- Steps and sidewalks. Check for cracks and breaks.
- Attic. Check for signs of inside water penetration such as stains on wood or insulation.
- Sump pump. Check operation by filling the pit with a garden hose until the float switch is activated. If the pump turns on and the float has free motion, it's working properly.
- Windows. Open and close windows to be sure they're working properly. Check screens for holes and tears.
After inspecting your home, make a "to do" list of repairs. Addressing minor repairs when you first notice problems will preserve the value of your home and save you money in the long run.
Then, it's time to begin spring cleaning. We like to start with these general maintenance tasks:
- Wash the windows.
- Change the furnace filter.
- Replace batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
- Clean mold and mildew from decks and porches.
- Stain and paint decks and porches.
- Clean out exterior drains.
Posted on Tue, Mar 09, 2010
Posted by: Brian Ciota, Vice President
Spring is almost here! The ice is melting and the time has come to do a check up on your home, put together a "to do" list of repairs and home improvement projects, and visit the CNY Home and Garden Show at the NYS Fairgrounds, March 18-21, 2010.
We have two booths in the Toyota Exhibit Center:
Booth #236 - Home remodeling and repair
Booth #801 - Solar water heating systems
This year, we've combined our home remodeling and home repair displays into a single, larger display area. It's an exciting new look for us designed with your needs in mind. You'll see the latest in kitchen, bathroom and basement conversion designs as well as additions and custom projects in our new photo gallery.
Stop by booth #801 and we'll show you how our new VELUX solar water heating system works and why it's a good investment for Central New York homeowners.
McClurg team experts will be at the booths throughout the show to answer your questions about home remodeling, renovations, repair, new construction and solar technology.
Please stop by to see us. We look forward to seeing you at this year's show.